Fly Fishing on the Peocs River, NM

While in Santa Fe last week we (my wife Barb and I) decided to try fly fishing in New Mexico.  But first a little about our fishing experience. We are experienced fishermen and we fish the Galveston bay system probably 60 days a year.  We fish primarily in Galveston West Bay and in  shallow water 1′ -3′ deep. Our usual targets are speckled trout and redfish. We will often find some undesirables on the end of our line.. fish like shark, gafftop, ladyfish, sting rays, etc. My wife had never tried fly fishing before and my only prior fly fishing experience was about an hour trying to learn to fly rod cast in Laguna Madre about 10 years ago (unfortunately it was late at night and there was beer involved so I didn’t learn much).

We decided we needed professional assistance (and we are sure glad we did!). We spend many weeks a year in Santa Fe and we were familiar with High Desert Anglers on Cerrillos Road. I put in a call to them and they were very helpful and willing to take on two fly fishing novices. We booked a trip for August 3, 2009 for the Pecos River.

We had the good fortune to be assigned to an experienced guide, Jim Jones. Mr. Jones is as nice a guy as you’d want to meet.  We met at 8am at the shop and got fitted for our waders and other gear which all seemed to be in very good condition. We hopped in Jim’s truck and took the ride to the Pecos River private water we had booked. In about an hour we were putting our gear on and walking the river bank heading to a spot to wade in. Prior to our hike Jim showed us the basics of fly casting and he did a great job of simplifying things with very easy to follow tips. I have fished with many guides over the years and here I was having been with a guide for almost 2 hours already and he hasn’t yet called anyone an idiot!

After a short hike we wade into the Pecos River. Remember please, we’re from Houston and the 58 degree water felt mighty cold and mighty nice (the day we left Houston it was 97 degrees and the Galveston water temperature was 87 degrees!).

We were a little surprised that the water was flowing as well as it was for it being August. If you waded into a 2 ft deep spot the water could exert a lot of pressure on you. So please keep in mind that my wife needs the waders on to get up to 100lbs and for her the water current was a battle all day.

We wade into the middle of the stream with a plan to wade into the current, cast into the current and let the fly drift back. About the second or third cast the water boils up and Barb misses her first fly fishing trout! The technique for actually hooking a fly fish is opposite the technique for the artificial lure fishing we do in Galveston, that was a surprise to us. Fortunately a few minutes later I got a bite and managed to land a small brown trout, my first fly fishing catch.

That’s the good news, the bad news is Barb has not caught a fish yet and our guide makes it his personal mission in life to make sure she does. She’d had a number of strikes so far but was unable to land anything. Being the gentleman that I am (and also because Jim told me to) I let Barb and Jim go ahead so they could have the “fresh” water to work. Barb had some more opportunities but still no hook-ups.

I guess I got impatient in the back and when Jim wanted Barb to re-rig and fish a deeper hole I decided to go ahead of them and explore the new water. It all went well for a minute or two. I got to a deep spot and decided to climb a few rocks in order to get to a perfect, trout looking spot ahead.  I climbed up the rock and as I stepped down on the other side my knee went out (old basketball injury). I went down like I was shot. Bounced off the rock and now horizontal, half in the water and half out… but I was facing up stream and my waders were filling up fast! I gotta tell you it was not a fun event. I felt like I was being dragged under water. I was clinging to the rock like I was on the edge of Everest. I managed to pull myself onto a flat spot, waders filled with 58 degree water, and look back down stream. What do I see? Barb and Jim pretty much laughing at me. They claim they were shouting, trying to see if I needed help, but they sure weren’t heading my direction! They claim this all happened in about 18 inches of water but by my memory it was about 10 feet deep!

I emptied my waders and onward we moved upstream. Barb had a few more opportunities but was unable to land her first fly fish. I had another hook up that didn’t get landed.

All the while our guide, Mr. Jones, was helpful and good spirited. We didn’t catch many fish but we had a great time. The weather was as spectacular as the the scenery and spending a half day walking up a beautiful river is hard to beat. Even with my near death experience it was a perfect day on the river.

And, oh yea, did I mention that the camera Barb told me not to bring was in my waders when I fell in? That didn’t go over well. Uhhh, no pictures for this post.

Santa Fe Opera

We had the pleasure of spending the morning at the Santa Fe Opera house (www.santafeopera.org).  They have a 9am morning tour many days while it’s opera season. The facility is spectacular but it’s really all about the location and setting. High on a hill in the high desert mountains a few minutes north of Santa Fe. It’s a great way to spend an hour. The Santa Fe Opera was founded 50 years ago when Santa Fe was little more than a village on the map. The founder, Mr. Crosby, had the vision and determination to make his dream come true, we should all live so boldly. Now long after his death his legacy is enriching the lives of many.

Passport weekend in Dry Creek Valley wine region

We just returned from the annual Dry Creek Valley Wine region Passport weekend. This event has about 50 wineries who participate and most have food events as well.

The results were mixed. The best of the 2 day fest was at Mauritson Wines, very interesting wines with great food. The oyster sandwiches were really special.

The most amazing food spread was at Rafanelli, it looked like a mid-night buffet on the Lido deck. The Zins were pretty decent, the 2006 handled itself well.

The best time was definitely at Bella Wines where they not only had decent food but good wines, ice cream and a circus act! All at the top of a lovely hillside.

Unti had a bare bones wine event, which was one of our favorites. The 2006 Reserve Syrah is a big, solid wine that is looking for a good steak! If you can find it, get it and store it well for a few years. You’ll be glad you did.

We stayed at a little B&B in Guernville that is trying to do things right but has a way to go. Dana and Brian run the Orchid Sonoma Inn and are there to help. The facility has really, really comfortable beds (at least the bed in the Sequoia room was great). The setting is too close to the road but pleasant enough and priced right.

A nice few days, not great but nice.

Santa Fe the “City Different” – and not the usual stuff……

Looking to visit a place that is as far from Disney World as you can get, but still have civilization, then Santa Fe might be your answer. You may have visited before but we think some “insider” info could make your next visit special.

First, you may be thinking “how do they know?” Well, we have a home there and we get to spend about 40-50 days a year in Santa Fe. But we only go in spring, summer, fall and winter!!!

How do you get to Santa Fe? Assuming you are flying…. it’s into Albuquerque Airport (ABQ). The airport there might be the perfect size. 

I only bring up the airport because you should not not miss the green chile stew at the restaurant in the airport…..yes, I said don’t miss it. The restaurant is easy to find, it’s in the middle of the airport.  We have been known to plan our departures around lunch time so we have an excuse to get the green chile stew (with chicken!), it’s the best. Even better than the more famous green chile stew at El Ferolita’s in El Rito (El Rito is right on the edge of the middle of no where but if you are in O’Keefe Country take the 30 minute side trip for sure).

Now back to Santa Fe, from the airport it’s 1 hour to Santa Fe by car. 

Here are our suggestions if you have only 4 nights. I think that we could fill a 21 day plan easily, but if 4 days is all you have here are our recommendation.

Day Stuff:

Shidoni Foundry (www.shidoni.com): This is an easy 15 minute drive from town. It’s in Tesuque Village, just follow Bishop’s Lodge Rd. They have 4 incredible things to see, the first is the glass blowing, it’s in the first building on the right. The schedule for this seems a little hit or miss but it’s a beautiful process to watch. Next the gallery across the way. Interesting stuff. Third, the sculpture grounds where you can see some larger sculptures from the well known and not so well known. Finally, and the highlight…call ahead to get the “pour” schedule in the foundry. Shidoni allows visitors into the room where the castings are puored. Watch this fascinating process. It’s a don’t miss. 

Also, if the weather is good bring a picnic, there are tables down by Tesuque creek. Oh yeah, around the corner is the Tesuque Village market, don’t be scared by the outside. It’s a good place to pick up picnic foods or have lunch on the porch. Not counting picnic time this should be a nice leisurely 2.5 hours round trip.

Tent Rocks (www.blm.gov/nm/st/en/prog/recreation/rio_puerco/kasha_katuwe_tent_rocks.html): Hiking at it’s best. A great hike about 30 mins southwest of Santa Fe. The hike itself is interesting, it goes through tight canyons and rock formations and opens to beautiful vistas.. About 2 hours for the hike.

Santa Fe Plaza: The Sants Fe Plaza has been there for over 400 years and has been the focal point of incredible history that has shaped the U.S., Mexico and Spain. Visit the Museum in the Governors Palace. It’s small but filled with historical detail. Spend sometime actually reading the chronology, you’ll be glad you did. You can spend hours and days in and around the Plaza so I can’t give a time estimate for this one. There is a lot of shopping around the Plaza some good but get off the plaza for the best stuff. Don’t miss Azul (www.azulgallery.com) a lot of beautiful stuff and Josh and Alysia are the best. And if art is your thing then Canyon Road is your place, you can easily spend all day on Canyon Road.

In Town Santa Fe:

Sunsets:  Don’t forget to go up to Marcy Park for the beautiful New Mexico sunsets. It’s the park on the north side of Sanat Fe on Paseo de Peralta about 4 blocks from the Plaza. You can see the large white cross at the top from almost any where in town. An easy walk to the base and hike to the cross, 5 minutes up, and catch a great sunset.

Santa Fe Plaza at night (summer): 6 nights a week in the summer there is live music on the Plaza. It’s a wide variety of music, normally two acts per night. You could open with Buddist chanting and close with Bill Hearne’s Band (www.billhearne.com) Mr. Hearne is a legend in folk music and a fixture in Sants Fe. My wife and I love to dance the night away on the Plaza, and, oh yeah, if you like to people watch this is the place. You can see anything and everything!

Santa Fe Farmer’s Market: Another do not miss. It’s at the Railyard which is a few blocks from downtown (on Guadalupe). It’s a year round market on Saturday mornings but as you can imagine the best time is summer and fall. If you are lucky enough to be there when the chile’s are harvested and roasted you are in for a treat. We’ve been to Farmers Markets in many places but the only one we can remember better was in Aix-en-Provence.

Food and Wine

Now this is the real reason to visit Santa Fe. Sants Fe is obsessed with high quality, locally grown, organic foods prepared in exoctic and interesting ways. 

There are many famous Santa Fe reastaurants but we don’t necessarily recommend them. Not that they aren’t good, several (Compound, Coyote Cafe and Geronimo for instance) are very good but remember you only have 4 nights in this itinerary.

Breakfast or Lunch: (Note: We don’t have a lot of breakfast recommendations. We prefer breakfast in, we buy breads and rolls from various places and have a leisurely morning around the house)

Guadalupe Cafe – I prefer it for breakfast. Well known place but lots of locals and great food. Service can be a little spotty but their hearts are in the right place. A don’t miss for sure.

Pasquale’s – Get the Durango omelete!! Near the square, very good for breakfast.

Lunch:

Rooftop Pizza – just off the square and on the top floor. Good wine list and an amazing quality of pizza with interesting approaches. Also, the meake the best and as far as I know only green chile creme brulee, I’m not making this up, if it isn’t on the menu ask for it. It’s fabulous.

Tecolote: On Cerillos road. Old school Mexican and very good! (google it, it was on Food Channel drive ins, Diners and Dives.

Cayote Cafe Cantina: Pay attention here. There is a Coyote Cafe which is a very good restaurant and rather famous. I’m refering to the Cantina on the roof above the Coyote Cafe. Have the Sangria for sure and my favorite is the Garbage Burger…. it’s the best in town.

La Casa Sena - Better for lunch than dinner and better yet if the weather allows you to eat in the fabulous courtyard. Menu changes often.

Dinner

Tratoria Nostrani: This is our absolute favorite. The service is the best in Santa Fe and the food is of the highest quality, simply prepared with interesting combinations and presentations. The wine list is world class (and largely in-decipherable) we know a bit about wine but the depth and breadth of this list is over whelming. An extraordinary selection of Italians and Burgundy. Ask Eric to pick the wine for you. Just give him your price range and tell him what food you’re ordering and he will treat you right. And if Robert is working make sure he’s your waiter. Also, WARNING, this is a fragrance free restaurant and Eric means it!

La Boca: A terrific tapas restaurant that is filled with interesting items, I like it because we can taste 4-6 different things for a fair price and not get over-stuffed. Good wine list and heavy on the Spanish wines.

Amavi: Great fresh food, good service and a respectable wine list. Beautiful restaurant and a staff that really works at it. A good spot for sure.

E Ferol: On Canyon Road. Good food, good music, just a very fun place to spend a few hours. Wide menu selection.

Desert: Don’t miss ECCO, the best gelato in Santa Fe, it’s on Marcy Street and open surprisingly late!

So there you have it… exercise, culture, food and wine all in four days! We hope to see you in Santa Fe!

If you get to Sedona, AZ area don’t miss Jerome..

Make the trip to Jerome which is about 30 miles from Sedona. Old mining town on the side of a mountain. Interesting history, touristy but not terrible (terrible is Virgina City, NV!!). Don’t miss the Asylum restaurant which is housed in the old insane asylum (now hotel) at the top of the town. The food is surprisingly good and the wine list was very nice for a small town in the middle of nowhere. Also, don’t forget to ask your waiter about the rather amazing Jerome Halloween events, sounds pretty wild. We will be back for a Halloween as soon as we can get a hotel room at the Asylum! FYI- they are booked thru 2010!